Trip To Kaluk - Rinchenpong , In West Sikkim

Discover Unmatched Beauty Of Kaluk And Rinchenpong In West Sikkim

Sikkim is not a mere travel destination for me, Sikkim is a symphony to me which lingers in my senses, still after I go away from Sikkim. After visiting idyllic village-scape of Kaluk and Rinchenpong, my Sikkim-syndrome created a crescendo that reminds me my desire for a peaceful life, desire to escape urban din. Kaluk village is one of the many remote yet beautiful hamlet resting peacefully in the plunging valleys of Sikkim, dazzled with rhododendron grooves,hemmed by Himalayas, the mighty Kangchenjunga.Every hidden corner of this little hamlet exclusively focuses on ethereal beauty of Kangchenjunga floating over distant clouds without any hype (obviously in a clear sky day). Mysterious Kangchenjunga prefers to disguise her gracefulness inside a deep veil of clouds(winter is best bet).

A Spectacle to gape open mouthed, for which veteran travelers rushing to Sikkim years after years

Enroute to Kaluk:

Without much knowing what was lying ahead of me,I whispered a farewell to queen of hill,Darjeeling and started for Kaluk.The picturesque avenues approached through unending slopes of sprawling tea plantation  towards my destination.From Darjeeling I descended down and down  up to the foot-hill town Jorethang bustling beside roaring Rangeet river valley.The roar of the river reverberates in the valleys.

The river , the mountains and the valley where lives thrives,Jorethang a foothill town at West Sikkim

After crossing suspension bridge over cascading,restless Rangeet( river),it was stiff climb through densely wooded mountains occasionally interspersed with little hamlets surrounded by rice terraces.By-passing serene Soreng,waving hands of  road side children,at-last I reached Kaluk,after three and half hours journey. 

Immersed into the mountains of Sikkim

I spent two days with absolute peace of mind enjoying each moment of serenity and deeply immersed into the mountains of Sikkim.I walked through unknown mountain trails,soaking in the strong aroma of moist woodlands infused with the fragrances of wild flowers.Tall trees,wild flowers, dense canopy made a beautiful sight and no wonder beautiful birds made Kaluk their nest.See graceful bird's picture at Dawn Chorus At Kaluk and the flowers  at Summer Blooms In Sikkim.

A paradise for nature lovers, aflame with wild flowers

Kaluk cocooned within her own rhythm so as the villagers.Without socializing with shy yet friendly villager experiencing rural Sikkim would be incomplete.An absorbing visit to Azing Lepcha's organic Farm made my last wish a fulfillment.Spent few hours inside Azing's organic farmland and with the family, sharing stories with the family how they took personal initiative to produce everything organically from sting-less honey to alcohol free fruit wines and some are unique like jack fruit,gurush (flower of rhododendron)and banana wine.I tasted couple of variety wines.That's how beautiful rural Sikkim is!Life is a journey and I am the one to make it ethereal.

She is a simple village lady unique with her own idea ,and I feel she is as beautiful as her work

Kaluk with handful of houses and shops entices me with brisk weather,flowering bushes,clamoring birds ,little known mountain trails,orange-pineapple-grapes grooves and cheerful friendly villagers.The best part of these countryside is ,it has managed to be pristine pure while giving all comforts for a family holiday.

That,s how beautiful is Rural Sikkim !

This time I was in no mood of hoping from one sight to another or traveling rigorously, I restricted myself into the walking distance.So next day morning after a little walk through unspoilt mountain trail surrounded with wild grass flowers in adjacent village Rinchenpong,I reached to the mountain top and found a memorial stone with a poem written over it.

                            "Where the mind is without fear and the head is held high

                             Where knowledge is free..."

Sunshine looks so lovely on the grass flowers

First time I realize my journey can be as beautiful as a poem, indeed its a poetic place.We were into  Rabindra Smriti Ban,a memorial for legendary poet and Dak-Bunglow where Rabindranath Thakur spent some time in verdant solitude. A rice and fish curry Bong basking in the warmth of sunshine could see only sprawling mountains down below as far as eyesight could reach.Mist rolled in and out playing a hide and seek with the mountains.

My next stop was third oldest Rinchenpong monastry.I approached through atmospheric avenues of colorful prayer flags set on long bamboo poles towards the Tibetan style Buddhist monastery,adding splash of vibrant vermilion and sunshine yellow to the green ridge-top.The chanting sounds of Buddhist script by resident Buddhist monks resonates into the valley.I feel the tug of Shangri -La .

There is a feel of  spirituality in Sikkim's invigorating air

 Soon low lying monsoon clouds engulfed the hills and the slopes with a white transparent sarong. It started down pouring and I prayed for this downpour wholeheartedly.Because only a torrential rain can clear the embracing clouds and mysterious Kangchenjunga might come out of her disguise.But soon the cold breeze, the rain-drenched greenery and the sweeping mist embracing me,the mountains,the valleys would remind me why rain is so romantic to me despite the lack of sunshine.

Places to See Around Kaluk: 

Tucked away from touristy track Kaluk offers so many things for the veteran travellers

• Singshore Bridge - Asia's second highest suspension bridge.
• The Varsey Rhododendron Sanctuary is a must-visit.(In April you will be surely spellbouded by the riotous rhododendrons )
• Rinchenpong Monastry,Temi Tea Estate and  nearby ravishing RavBangla.
• Explore the adjacent alpine jungle and it is bird lovers paradise surrounded with wild flowers and exotic faunas.
• Khechipalru Lake.
• Pelling is also 2 hours drive .

 Staying At Kaluk:

Ghonday Village Resort draped with exotic foliages and floras welcomes every guest with never ending bird's clamor.This resort offers a peaceful homely  retreat to every visitant with a grassy lawn to unwind and a children's play area. The honest effort of the owner as well as the resort-stuffs to please each and every guests reflects everywhere from hearty meal to matchless service,from spotless cleanliness to beautification. Rooms are unfussy, big, with wall to wall window tastefully decorated with wooden furniture and beautiful upholstery.Being situated on the upper side of Kaluk this resort offers you gorgeous view of Mount Kanchendzonga range in a clear sky day.
PHONE: 03595 - 245267, (M) +91-0-95939 79695, 94341 10039, 99330 01127
email: ghondayvillageresort@ymail.com, ghonday.resort@gmail.com

Mandarin Village Resort is also equally good bet to stay in Kaluk. 

A genuine hospitality at Ghonday Village Resort

How To Reach Kaluk:

Most of the resort arrange pick up either from nearest railway station NJP /airport Bagdogra and fare is 3500Rs. Or From NJP /Siliguri you can come to Jorethang , main transport hub of West Sikkim by sharing cab.From Jorethang last  sharing Jeep for Kaluk leaves at 2:30 PM.In that case you can save a lot transport cost.Even from Darjeeling you can come down to Kaluk via Soreng. But the 26 Km stretch from Melli Bazar to Jorethang is pathetic due to double lane road construction work.

Best Time To Visit Kaluk:

You can visit Kaluk all through the year, except perhaps during the monsoon. The best time to go is between April and mid-June as in April hills dazzled with riotous rhododendrons and summers are soothing. If you do not shy away from the cold, however, the winter months (mid-September to mid-December) are best bet for clear weather and getting a panoramic view of the snow-capped peaks.

Related Article About Kaluk:

 Dawn Chorus At Kaluk 

Summer Blooms In Sikkim

Summer Blooms In Sikkim

Summer Blooms In The Courtyard of Sikkim, In the Wild Bushes of Mountains Trails

If nature is mother then flower is obviously soul of mother nature. Flower has a soothing power to attract,to charm and to mesmerize.The mountains of Himalaya are embellished with plenty of flowers.
Sikkim is a world's one of the major flower hub ,very rich in biodiversity with 600 species of orchids, 240 species of trees and ferns, 150 varieties of gladioli, 46 types of rhododendrons along with a variety of magnolias and many other foliage plants.Flowers love to bloom in the cool moist temperate climate of Sikkim's high mountain ridges or on the slopes of plunging valleys or into the deep of known - unknown forest trails, so as the Sikkimese love to protect nature.Sikkim also host an International Flower Festival every year from  March to May to display exotic varieties of flora native to Sikkim .

Flowers mesmerize me at every place whenever I am into the highland of Sikkim. Mountain slopes ,wooden homes,gardens,resorts ,roadsides,monasteries all are adorned by various mountain flowers.And the upper ridges of the hills like versey, yumthung valley dazzled with the crazy bloom of white pink and red rhododendrons in spring. I rush to these highland every year in summer /spring like honey bees attracted towards flowering grooves.

The bunches of small wild roses are very common in these mountains in abundance and  their smells with moist air soothes me like nothing else.

I have seen many variants of Azaleas (varieties of small Rhododendrons), but  eyes were delighted with these soothing bloom of peach pink one.

And the morning dew freshens up the white Azaleas .

As the first ray of sun kisses the petals of maroon -violet Lilly, they brighten my days.The colors are so uncommon ,so vivid ,should I say maroon or violet or mixture of both the tones?

These tiny little bright blooms adorn the mountain walls like a flower woven carpet stitched passionately.

I don't know the names of theses small dazzling beauty.But the fiery orange with a brighter yellow in the middle, with soft green rounded leaves all over shows nature has its own style.

And who cares about these soft tender wild grass flowers on the both sides of meandering mountain trails ?I feel they are charming and makes my voyage a picturesque one .

There are many more to explore and will share some more in coming days.

Bird Watching In Sikkim

Dawn Chorus at Kaluk,West Sikkim

This summer I visited Kaluk ,a little hamlet immersed peacefully in the mountains of west Sikkim where spring is resounded with bird songs,tweeting,whistling.Though it was not my bird watching tour, but I loved to awaken at the peep of dawn with the chorus of different birds. Basically West Sikkim is heaven for bird watchers.I spotted many beautiful species like white cheeked himalayan bulbul,green-backed tit,whistling thrush,flycatchers around my resorts,Ghonday Village Resort,Kaluk. Often these little birds camouflaged themselves with the color of the nature ,so spotting them is difficult and even capturing them is more difficult. 

I spotted one little copper-sulphate bluish Verditer Flycatcher, peeping through the thick foliage, ready to take aerial pursuit for catching flying insects.

Magical Bird:Verditer Flycatcher, spotted at west Sikkim,Kaluk

Verditer Flycatcher , photographed at Kaluk,West Sikkim

 My mornings were melodious with the thin whistle like te te te ... of little blue beauties, asian verditer flycacthers.I was in the search for more birds and spotted an adult green-backed tit a small songbird on the backdrop of greenish yellow bamboo grooves, a perfect blending of colors.

Green Backed Tit ,photographed at Kaluk ,West Sikkim

I was sitting idle on the lawn chair and soon spied a white cheeked friendly bulbul , a himalayan variety with a crest on head sitting on a high branch and  searching for her company.

White Cheeked Himalayan Bulbul, photographed at Kaluk,West Sikkim

And my days were full off chirping sounds of dozens of restless himalayan black bulbuls , always hopping from one branches to other.I was a silent spectator of spring in the peaceful adobe of birds.

Himalayan Black Bulbul, photographed at West Sikkim,Kaluk

South and West Sikkim : Altitude  500 - 4000m. Contains  hotspots like Pelling/Pemayangtze (1500-2000m), Yuksom (1800m), Ravangla (2000m), Maenam Wild Life Sanctuary (3000m), Khechopari Lake (2000m), Dzongri, Versey Rhododendron Sanctuary and Kanchenjunga National Park.

Places To See Arround Yumthung Valley, Sikkim

Zero Point,Sikkim - A Frosted White Wonderland

 N.B.This post is basically part of my earlier Sikkim post,Love At First Sight:Yumthung Valley.

In the shadow of hulking high peaks lies a wonderland of snow, giant glaciers and a trickling stream, where time seems to be frozen in a pristine white frame.

Zero Point,Yumesamdong,North Sikkim

It is exhilarating experience to drive through the high mountain passes of Sikkim. Landscape changes in every hair-pin bend from gorgeous golden paddy fields to gurgling waterfalls, from forest of conifers to a meadow of  primulas, rhododendrons. Jeep cuts through the chilled morning winds, climbing high, high and higher through the ribbon like path, grey swirls of clouds, fog obscured our vision, flecks of snow scattered here and there. We started rubbing our hands, pulling our shawls to escape shivering skin deep cold. The patches of snow started spreading and soon covered the mountain walls, carpeted the surroundings. We entered   into the country of clouds, snow and fog. The road side stone shows us - Yumesamdong - Zero Point, 15500 feet altitude in the North East state Sikkim (India).Quiet a few elated tourists playing with snowballs. But our Bolero MAX started chasing the winds on the highland pass with more speed, almost gliding through the icy treacherous road and our excitement infused to nervousness.

Yumthung Valley as seen from the winding road

 

A Stream trickles down the mountain ,at Zero Point,Sikkim

Delighted tourists near  Zero Point,Yumesamdong,Sikkim

The road took a turn and then all of a sudden, dramatic change of the panorama - pristine, white snow land shining underneath indigo blue sky, surrounded by the sky high mountain peaks.An Aquamarine stream trickles down the mountains with its own rhythm. The sharp bright autumn sun set everything sparkling. If there is a heaven on earth, then this is it.The place is cocooned by a soothing calmness.Completely absorbed by the aura of this heavenly beauty,we walked,slipped and hurled snow ball each other and took some snaps with tight hug, a frame forever.

Bright Autumn Sun sets everything sparkling

A no man's land, rubbing soldier with People's Republic of China, heavily patrolled by Indian Army. Few bankers lying scattered here and there like igloo in the polar land. I don’t know how they keep themselves so alert at this sub-zero temperature where survival is near to impossible.We are far away from the 'Zero point' and a heartfelt thanks to our guide cum driver.I always feel locals can guide you best to traverse not so trodden path. At this high altitude,15,500ft where temperature is below zero, it’s hard to speculate whims of weather. Soon canopy of clouds covered the elixir-blue of the sky, storm winds yanked us into our jeep and reverse tracing of the path. “Alice" is back from the Wonderland.

Coming Back from Zero Point,Yumesamdong,North Sikkim

How To Reach Zero Point:  

Normally, the package tour from Gangtok to Yumthung Valley will have sightseeing till Yumthang valley. Beyond this one can go upto  Yumesamdong famously known as zero-point by paying extra money directly to the driver.For more details how to reach and other thing please refer my earlier post on Yumthung Valley.
Picture Courtesy:Mr Gourab Mukherjee and rights reserved to this blog.

Yumthung Valley - Breathtakingly Beautiful

Yumthung Valley, North Sikkim  - Love At First Sight

I don't know how many of you believe in "love at first sight?" theory. But I feel it happens and happens for good reason. The tiny state of Sikkim throws many lures to travelers and one of them is ‘Yumthung Valley’,basically a recent addition to the tourist map of Sikkim.Away from the maddening crowd,hidden in the slope of north Sikkim's highland,a summer grazing pasture at an elevation of 11,800 feet provides little heavens of respite for harassed travelers.Hence it suits well for my fond ambition of spending vacation in verdant solitude.

We started our journey from Gangtok to Lachung (the nearest village where accommodation is available) by booking a full vehicle. As one drives up the hill of north Sikkim,cool greenery,picturesque hamlets, overflowing waterfalls immediately soothes one’s senses.We came across extremely captivating seven sister’s waterfall cascading through seven steps and ultimately crashing on the rocks with huge roar.
             Next we halted for lunch at a road side small village, glittering in the backdrop of golden yellow terraced rice farms, like a picture postcard. They served us hot delicious lunch with rice, potatoes,cabbages and super testy chicken curry.I could be over impressive,but having a lunch at this lovely setting, made it more tastier.

Seven Sister Waterfalls ,on the way to Yumthung Valley

A roadside Village ,way to Yumthung Valley,North Sikkim

We reached to Lachung after six hours of long hectic jeep journey through the rumbled hilly lane and climate was chilling cold.But worth it all.Lachung,(at an elevation of 9600 ft),close to Tibet border,at an confluence of Lachen and Lachung river is an sleepy hamlet with simple fun loving villagers,may be the most idyllic riverside hilly village I ever visited,with no four five star marking resorts,posh restaurants,psychedelic cafes or bustling summer flea market.And that is the plus factor of its charm.Whatever expectation I had with Lachung,unhindered panoramic view of the rugged Himalayan hills exceeded everything.The feeling of oneness with the nature started brewing in my mind.It was an awesome beginning.

Way to Yumthung Valley

Snow Clad Mountain View, near Yumthung Valley

The valley is 29KM away from Lachung village.Next day morning we headed to the valley after having piping hot "puri sabji" breakfast through a zigzag road. Wind started taking pace and temperature was low enough,but I don't have even time to feel that,I was paralyzed by the road side scenery. Mountain clouds,blooming flowers,colorful forest,sparkling streams guided us to the small piece of paradise.

TheAlpine Medow,Yumthung Valley

A huge golden meadow- Sikkim's mountain and glaciers come  flowing down to valley's slope,crisscrossed by the shimmering water of mountain streams,studded with wild flowers,surrounded by the forest of fir.Yak's were grazing sluggishly on the slopes of high mountain.There were certain lure in the murmuring sound of the mountain streams,I sat upon the valley's flower bed for a long time,lost in the world,absorbed by the brilliance of nature.Soon the clouds from the hills came calling us and almost covered half the valley,the forests became hazy.We walked along the river,crossed a bridge surrounded by the holy flag prayers and played with the freezing clod water,took some more snaps,so unwilling to leave this solitary summer highland.
               As we retraced back to Lachung,I realized the place is for the true lover of the nature who admire nature and carry a everlasting piece of memory within themselves,not for those who leave a piece of themselves in the form of plastic,cans,bottles.

The river flowing through the Yumthung Valley

Tips To Travel To Yumthung Valley,North Sikkim:

 Lachung -Yumthang- Yumesamdong Valley Tour package highlight :

•  A bird's eye view of the Teesta Valley at Singhik.
• An evening on banks of river at Lachung
• Experiencing sub-zero temperature and 360 degree snow clad mountains at  Yumesamdong ,Zero-point (15000+ feet).For more details of Yumesamdong check my post http://travelingisbliss.blogspot.in/2013/06/zero-pointyumthung-valley.html
• In the winter Yumthung Valley gets carpeted by thick layer of snow.Skiing,which has recently been introduced at Phuni (close to the Sangri pass in the valley)—which, at 11,500ft, is the highest and most extreme skiing you’ll find in the country.During the spring months,the area blooms with rhododendrons, primulas, poppies, iris and many more and hence it is known as Valley Of Flowers.Hotel Le Coxy is good place for comfortable stay.

• Situated  at an altitude of 9,600 ft. and at a distance of about 117 Kms from Gangtok.This entire distance is generally covered in about 06 - 07 hours and road condition is very bad at some points.Better not to travel with kids below 10 years. For visiting Yumthung Valley,you have to book either 1N,2Day or 2N 3days package from Gangtok. I personally feel 2N3days is best for covering Gangtok-Lachung- Yumthung Valley -Gangtok. Lots of package options from Gangtok are available and do a proper inquiry about lodging,food,sightseeing before finalizing for any package.

Aritar Lake,Sikikm - Explore Offbeat Trails Of Sikkim,

 Come Closer to Kangchendzonga ,Aritar Lake,Sikikm

"Sikkim" I believe,a place closer to Shangri La and a place always will be close to my heart.I been to 'Sikkim' several times already and whenever I started feeling restless or laid back from the hustle bustle of city-life,Sikkim has become my savior due to several reasons.One major reason,there is Himalaya with abundance of natural beauty,majestic view of Kanchenjunga,unique calmness in the weather, warm hearted,friendly 'Sikkimese' people and mouthwatering momos.I am dieing fan of steam-hot,soft,thinly 'maida' coated,mutton,pork even simple veg dumplings with eye-watering red chilli chutney.

Being a resident of Kolkata,a college student of Siliguri (a city nestled in the foothill of Himalaya,gateway of Sikkim) I never per-planned my journey to Sikkim,a place known to me for several years.In a fine morning of October I filled up my bags and on boarded to Darjeeling mail from Sealdah to New Jalpaiguri and then NJP to Gangtok.I will not describe much about Gangtok in this post,as this time my destination was Aritar,in eastern region of Sikkim,isolated from the rest of the state.It is a tiny hamlet encircled by Mt Kangchendzonga.In a clear sky day, panoramic view of Kangchendzonga will greet you from every corner of Aritar.

Kangchendzonga from our home stay in Aritar Sikkim

Dusk was falling when we arrived and after a little hunt we found a beautifully appointed farm house emblazoned with flowers at the edge of hill.I was always overwhelmed by the warmth of 'Sikkimese' people and this time was also no exception.The resident cook had prepared a welcome bouquet meal for us with lots of momos,noodles and thukpa which perked up our mood instantly.

There was further excitement awaiting for us.I woke up early still it was dark,sarong of mist draped over green of valley and firms.I took a stroll through the shadowy winding path which leads us to the cliff top.The sight that greeted us is still my best 'Sunrise View'.Dawn arrives over the "Himalayan" range.First ray of sun started caressing the snow capped peaks of "Mt Kangchendzonga" with flecks of orange,red and yellow.As sun rises above,white snow capped peak of Kangchendzonga dazzled like a golden crown,the backdrop sky started playing "holi"(Festival of color,in India).The splendor of seeing sunrise over magnificent mountains cant not be described,has to be experienced.

Sunrise Over Kangchendzonga as seen from Aritar,East Sikkim

A layer below,deep in the valley,quite "Lamapokhri" lake was looking like a sleeping beauty bedecked with fantasy,as if she will wake up with the divine ray of dawn.It is quite and air is cool and moist.Morning rays started to spread warmth inside sleepy village with terraced farm fields.On the winding road back,green water of Lamaphokri lake surrounded by tall pine,far,deodar trees welcomed us with its splendid solitaire.Still I cant help :thinking of that "Tranquil Beauty".The beauty of the place still not threatened by the tourism monsters.

Early Morning View Of Aritar Lake

Later in the morning we visited "Aritar Gumpa"a monastery of the Kagyuapa order,considered as one of the holiest and oldest in Sikkim.The monastery was beautifully built with traditional Buddhist architecture with moral and paintings and treasure for old manuscript.The sun bleached prayer flags on bamboo poles bid adieu to us from the place,closer to Shangri-La.

Holy Prayer Flags

Must Do in Aritar ,Sikkim: 

Watch the sun rise over the Kangchendzonga.Do a trek short or long in and around.Try some momo and traditional local dishes.

Places to See around Aritar,Sikkim:

 If you love hiking ,then a trek to Phushery Lake,Pangolakha and Rachela, the historic tri junction border of Sikkim, West Bengal and Bhutan,is quite thrilling experience.You may have chance to see red panda,peasant,rare species of butterflies,wild orchids and other exotic flora and fauna.

How To Reach Aritar ,Sikkim:

Bagdogra is the nearest airport and New Jalpaiguri is the nearest railway station. From Siliguri it is almost 5-6 hours drive by hired cab or can be reached by four hours drive from Gangtok via Rangpo.

Where to Stay In Aritar Sikkim:

If you need star category hotel,then this place is not for you.Couple of budget hotel is there .But I have seen some good home stay \farm house near the view point.

 Best Season to Visit Aritar,Sikkim: 

Avoid rainy season June to August,as these area is prone to landslide.Autumn and winter is best for Kangchendzonga View.